At what speed should microcement be sanded?
Use low to medium speeds and monitor both temperature and sanding aggressiveness.
Answers about applying, maintaining and choosing microcement systems.
Use low to medium speeds and monitor both temperature and sanding aggressiveness.
Yes, on smaller and less risky areas; shower and floor are more demanding.
Dilution is possible only according to the technical datasheet and must not compromise the properties or shade.
Yes, excessive or uneven dilution can affect the shade and texture.
Yes, provided the boards are firmly fixed and the joints are properly reinforced.
Yes, provided the plaster is solid, matured, dust-free and not painted with a non-adherent coating.
Yes, if the screed is solid, cohesive, dust-free and properly primed.
Yes, provided the epoxy is roughened, degreased and an appropriate adhesion bridge is created.
Yes, concrete is a suitable substrate if it is matured, strong, dry and clean.
Yes, Fermacell is a suitable substrate with proper preparation and reinforcement of joints.
Yes, in a dry interior, if it is stable, dry and properly primed.
Yes, provided the structure is stable and the surface is properly prepared and primed.
Yes, but the OSB must be firmly fixed, stable and usually reinforced with a reinforcing layer.
Yes, but a solid structure and full-surface reinforcement with reinforcing mesh is recommended.
Yes, sand-blasted epoxy is generally a suitable mechanical substrate if it is solid and free of loose sand.
Generally yes, after verifying compatibility; ideally with a test area and the recommended system procedure.
Yes, stairs are suitable, but the edges must be well reinforced and protected.
Yes, if the tiles are stable, cohesive, degreased, and free of hollow spots.
Yes, the procedure is similar to that for floor tiles; the key factors are strength, degreasing, and a reinforcement layer.
Only after verifying adhesion; glossy or waxed plaster must be removed or roughened.
Yes, but Ytong is absorbent and must be levelled, reinforced and properly primed.
Yes, especially for furniture; the MDF must be stable, clean, and properly primed.
Yes, but only if it is compatible and the surface allows good adhesion of the subsequent layer.
Yes, provided the layer is even, solid, fully cured and dust-free.
Yes, provided the anhydrite is dry, sanded, vacuumed and properly primed.
Yes, provided the original surface is solid, cohesive, degreased and sanded down.
Yes, on visible parts away from extreme temperatures; the thermal load on the substrate must be addressed.
Yes, it is a suitable application if the surface is finally protected with a durable lacquer.
Yes, but it must be well protected with varnish and you need to expect higher levels of wear.
Only with caution and rather on less stressed elements; the panel must be stable and protected against moisture.
Yes, especially on MDF or stable plywood; edges and final protection need to be addressed.
Yes, it is possible on stable plywood, but edges and joints must be properly treated.
Yes, if it is compatible with the assembly and properly installed without sharp transitions.
Yes, but the edge must be mechanically protected and carefully finished.
Technically it is sometimes possible, but it is not a standard final decorative system.
Yes, but with care to avoid over-sanding or circular marks.
Yes, smaller areas, corners and repairs are commonly sanded by hand.
Yes, but it is advisable to check the appropriate preparation and adhesion on a non-absorbent substrate.
No, if they are solid, cohesive and free of hollow spots.
No, if it is firmly fixed and properly prepared.
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